What would a band's wardrobe look like after months on the road, travelling across the United States? What stories would the clothes tell after countless nights spent driving, motel stays and endless hours between gigs? These are some of the images CALM uses as the starting point for THE HOURS BETWEEN, its latest collection, set against the backdrop of a fictional world tour through Los Angeles in 1992.
The independent Copenhagen label once again explores American culture through its distinctive Scandinavian perspective, this time building a narrative around an event that never actually took place. World Tour 1992 is the name of this imaginary tour, unfolding between the Hollywood-Calm Motel, long stretches of highway and the Venice Beach boardwalk. A story in which the protagonists are not necessarily the musicians themselves, but also the people behind the scenes and all those moments that take place once the lights go out.
The collection draws inspiration from seemingly insignificant scenes: checking into a motel after a long drive, watching municipal workers begin their shifts before sunrise or resting beside amplifiers after a stage has been dismantled. CALM translates these images into a collection that feels as though it has already accumulated miles, experiences and memories before even being worn.
The result is a lineup of 19 pieces in which the passage of time becomes an essential part of the design process. Rather than pursuing pristine finishes, the label embraces treated fabrics, silhouettes borrowed from past decades and details that convey a sense of lived-in authenticity.
Denim once again takes centre stage. Crafted from 13 oz selvedge cotton, the jeans feature washes and distressing applied before leaving the factory. The Rodeo Cut Dust revisits the bootcut silhouette, with faded detailing across the thighs that evokes the dust accumulated along the journey. Meanwhile, the Straight Cut Roadie features ripped knees and splatter effects reminiscent of the work involved in setting up and dismantling a stage.
The jersey pieces look back to the proportions of the seventies, with fitted T-shirts and long sleeves featuring cropped bodies. Graphics inspired by the Hollywood Motel sign and the number 17 incorporate a cracked-print effect designed to become part of their identity from the very first wear.
The collection also explores utilitarian dressing through the Hickory Stripe Work Pants, crafted from 11 oz cotton and inspired by the fabric traditionally associated with American railroad uniforms during the sixties. Their repaired and distressed appearance reinforces the dialogue between functionality, vintage aesthetics and workwear culture that runs throughout the collection.
The upperwear selection includes a purple zip-up hoodie, constructed first and washed afterwards to achieve a naturally worn finish, alongside two checkered shirts inspired by Hollywood's visual language, designed to be worn open and styled without too many rules.
Accessories complete the narrative. Caps featuring the names World Tour 1992, Dream On and Dept. of Recreation act as merchandise from a tour that never existed, small objects that expand the collection's fictional universe while reinforcing its nostalgic undertones.
At the helm of CALM, Oliver Benborg and Mahyar continue to develop a vision of menswear in which cultural references carry as much weight as the construction of the garments themselves. Music, Los Angeles, hip-hop, sportswear and vintage workwear all contribute to an aesthetic universe that the label reinterprets rather than simply reproduces. Each release begins with a specific story or reference, while denim remains one of the defining elements of its identity.
With six collections released each year and Dreamers Never Die as its guiding mantra, CALM finds in THE HOURS BETWEEN another way to explore American nostalgia. This time, the focus is less on the image of a band performing on stage and more on everything surrounding it: the roads, the uniforms, the motel rooms and the clothes that accompany every journey
A collection that reminds us that sometimes the most interesting part of the story doesn't happen during the show, but in the hours that surround it.
Words: @annaamaso