IM MEN Spring/Summer 2027: The Beauty of Silence
This was the second time I attended an IM MEN runway show, and once again, I left convinced that few brands understand the relationship between clothing, movement and space quite like Issey Miyake.
While much of Paris Fashion Week competes for attention through spectacle, IM MEN chose a completely different approach. There were no oversized props, celebrity distractions or theatrical moments designed to dominate social media. Instead, the collection invited the audience to slow down, observe and appreciate the beauty of texture, silhouette and quiet craftsmanship.
Presented at Césure, a former university campus transformed into a cultural venue, In Praise of Bamboo Shadows was built around a simple yet deeply poetic concept: translating the fleeting shadows cast by bamboo into clothing.
From the very beginning, the scenography established the atmosphere. Black bamboo structures, translucent veils and soft lighting created an ethereal landscape where models gradually emerged and disappeared between layers of shadow. Rather than feeling like a conventional runway show, it resembled a moving Japanese ink painting.
Nature has always been central to Issey Miyake's design language, but this season it was interpreted in a more abstract way. Bamboo was never represented literally. Instead, its flexibility, verticality and quiet balance became the foundation for the garments' construction, proportions and movement.
The oversized silhouettes wrapped naturally around the body. Sculptural coats, lightweight layers and fluid pleated pieces appeared to respond more to the movement of air than to the movement of the wearer, reinforcing the collection's sense of calm and effortless motion.
One of the collection's greatest strengths was undoubtedly its textile development. Fabrics woven from bamboo fibers and organic cotton were combined with traditional Japanese dyeing techniques to create delicate prints inspired by bamboo shadows. Denim was reimagined through artisanal discharge printing, producing subtle tonal variations reminiscent of Japanese ink wash paintings, while technical jacquards recreated the woven structure of traditional bamboo craftsmanship using remarkably lightweight materials.
Pleating, one of the House's most iconic signatures, evolved into something even more architectural this season. Inspired by the natural joints of bamboo, the pleats generated garments that continuously transformed with movement, demonstrating that technical innovation remains one of the brand's defining strengths.
Equally compelling was IM MEN's exploration of garment construction. In the Void Cotton series, familiar elements such as pockets were removed to create negative space, allowing new layers, proportions and silhouettes to emerge. It was a subtle yet thoughtful reminder that sometimes absence can be just as powerful as addition.
Accessories continued this dialogue between tradition and innovation. The Chimaki leather bag, inspired by the traditional Japanese rice parcel wrapped in bamboo leaves, transformed an everyday cultural object into a refined contemporary accessory crafted from natural leather designed to develop character over time.
The runway also introduced SORTIE VEILED, the second model developed with ASICS as part of the ISSEY MIYAKE FOOT project. By concealing the shoe's technical structure beneath a continuous outer layer of fabric, the design achieves a clean, architectural aesthetic while preserving the comfort and performance expected from a sneaker.
What impressed me most, however, wasn't one particular garment, it was the remarkable consistency of the entire vision. From the scenography and soundtrack to the textiles and construction techniques, every element contributed to the same narrative without ever feeling repetitive or overdesigned.
At a time when fashion often prioritizes instant impact over lasting emotion, IM MEN reminds us that there is still room for sensitivity, research and craftsmanship. It doesn't try to be the loudest show of Paris Fashion Week.
Instead, it quietly becomes one of its most memorable.
Words: @annaamaso